Gluten Free Rome - Roma Senza Glutine!

I've just returned from a delightful 15 day visit with my dearest friend Alessandra in beautiful Roma. 

I have spent a great deal of time in Rome, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I've packed up and moved there for a year at a time twice in my life (so far). As a celiac, most people would not consider this the ideal environment. I'd agree that this was true 20 years ago when I spent my first year there. Back then the words celiac and gluten (even when said in Italian) only confused people. Every interaction ended in one of two ways - complete disbelief and pity, or complete disbelief and dismissal. 

When I returned 10 years later, things had already changed a great deal. As a european citizen (and at the time taxpayer) I was entitled to healthcare. As a celiac I was essentially "disabled" in a culture where everything is made with flour. This translated into a 120 euro prescription for gluten free food available in the pharmacy. I dare you to try and keep up with that quantity of cookies, gnocchi and cake. I came home a year later with an extra 15lbs around my midsection.

On this most recent visit I was in awe of the quantity of restaurants around the city that were promoting their gluten-free options. Rather than make a list of places that will constantly change (and will vary in their understanding of contamination)... I thought I'd illustrate just how common the offering has become. 

I've eaten at Il TulipanoNero, in Trastevere, where I've had many, many amazing pizzas over the years. Click on their name for a link for them goes to Trip Advisor with loads of mixed reviews. I've always come away very happy. 

They were one of the first restaurants in Rome to offer gluten free and have been endorsed by the Italian Celiac Association. You will sometimes see this sign posted to indicate that the association has trained the restaurant and approves of their processes. This approval is renewed every year.  


As with anywhere, I don't strictly rely on places that promote their gluten-free status. I ate at Luca's in the neighbourhood of San Giovanni. Luca, the chef made special versions of dishes that were served to others where possible. He came out to explain which desserts were safe (I was too full - but he insisted I have a little plate of the filling he used in one of the pastries). 

Italians are passionate about food, and in my experience, are very accommodating. I also dined at il desiderio preso per la coda, near Piazza Navona, where the server was very attentive and had risotto made for me that did not use the pasta water (common practice) or include "dado" (their word for commercial broth). As a rule, I prefer to eat where the Romans eat and avoid places full of other tourists. Italians eat LATE, so an empty restaurant at 8pm is not an indication of popularity.

Valentino does not have a sign - the exterior remains from its heritage as an osteria or Italian pub

At Valentino, in the Monti neighbourhood I ate like a queen - they make meat, cheese and vegetable dishes (no pizza, pasta on the dinner menu). The owner was very clear on which dishes included pane gratata (bread crumbs - also commonly added to vegetable dishes here). I've eaten at Valentino three times, the food and authentic Italian atmosphere - makes it my favourite Italian restaurant. If you click on any of the names of these places, I've linked to their websites.

Fellow blogger, Erin at glutenfreeglobetrotter recommends La Soffitta Ristorante Renovatio, near the Vatican.

 

Another reader and blogger named Anna from gluten free jet setter commented that Taverna Barberini made her gluten-free pasta that she still dreams about. I noted on their site that they also hold gluten-free events there. 

Voglia di Pizza has also gotten some online attention and cross promotes with a hotel that promises a good gluten free experience.

Mama! Eat - is located in Trastevere and also has two locations in Napoli. Check out their menu online. I'll try them next time as they are around the corner from my favourite Piazza - Santa Maria in Trastevere.


I typically stay with Alessandra when I'm in the city - so don't eat every meal out. We shop and eat most meals at home. EVERY grocery store I've been in has at least some gluten-free pasta, cookies and or crackers.You will not starve in Roma. 


The gluten-free goodness is never ending. How about the classic Tiramisu - made gluten-free at Pompi. They have several locations around central Rome. Mamma mia - if only Alessandra hadn't been lactose intolerant... I ate a portion that was more than enough for two - all by myself in less than 5 minutes. 



Gelato - for the most part safe in and of itself, but like any ice-cream place, one must be careful of contamination. Scoops that go in a cookie/biscotti flavour get used with all of the flavours. Use your best judgement, and always share that you are gluten-free. This is a language that is well understood now - especially in Italian. Do everyone a favour and be clear to avoid unnecessary intake. 




At Fatamorgana Gelato, one needs not worry at all. When I asked to see the gluten-free cones they promoted, the server looked at me quizzically. They are all gluten-free, he said, and proceeded to show me the recipe for the most amazing thin crispy cone I've ever had. They have 6 locations in the centre of Rome. Everything is gluten free. Almond cardamon, chocolate orange, and lactose free flavours like pineapple ginger... sigh. 

My celiac childhood has left me with a considerable weakness for cookies. There is an incredible selection within the grocery stores, and many larger grocery chains even carry their own line of gluten-free goods. You will never be bored. I often trekked around the city with little bags of almonds, individually wrapped packages of cookies (to have with my cappuccino), or crackers and wrapped cheeses on days when I wandered alone and just needed something to hold me over. Unlike my travels in northern Europe, I rarely needed these little emergency rations. 

I've lived with celiac disease for a very long time, and have only ever approached food through a lens of caution. I will admit that my Italian, while not perfect, is pretty functional, and this helps a lot - but is not necessary to get a safe meal that will I suspect will greatly exceed your expectations. 

A couple of key words to know:

Gluten Free: 
Senza glutine (pronounced sen-zah gloo - tee - nay).

I am/have celiac disease: 
Sono celiaca (pronounced so-no chee - lee - ah - kah )

Check out this useful travel site HERE to download cards in every language that you can carry with you. 

Visit the Italian Celiac Association site HERE. At the time I'm posting their regionalized restaurant list was under construction.

Mangiare Senza Glutine is an Italian language site, but includes an APP you can download to search wherever you are in Italy for gluten free anything. It was recommended to me by another Roman friend Priscilla, who works as a tour guide. 

If you are not into eating out for every meal (like me), an ideal arrangement is to rent a small studio apartment with a kitchen. Everything tastes better here - even when you make it yourself. So many products like sauces, pesto - even chocolate are marked as gluten-free... so it's not difficult to keep yourself satiated here. Keep the food simple, avoid highly processed items with long ingredient lists - and ask for help. The various names for gluten on the restaurant cards will be helpful when shopping too, as you can use them to ask others to validate ingredients if you need to. 

All I've covered here is food... which is divine, but only a part of the experience, and by no means comprehensive. What I wanted to provide here was a sense of the possibilities. My hope is to calm any anxieties about travel to a country known for its gluten. Even without the fine fare... Rome is non-stop eye candy. 

Remember to click on the many links I've shared for more information on the places I came across ... and then pack your camera, sunglasses and most comfortable shoes. You'll certainly find your own special gluten free finds when you get there. 

Buon Viaggio!!

Eataly carries three stories full of the most beautiful Italian food products. At Piramide station on the metro. 

ps: for more on travel - check out the links on the right side of this blog... and don't forget to check the amazing sites of the gf travel bloggers I've linked to above!

Sackville New Brunswick: Gluten-free

We have a place out on the east coast of Canada in Nova Scotia on the Bay of Fundy. We have no problem eating gluten-free here. In fact, there isn't a place to buy anything to eat unless you get in your car and drive to the Co-op in a neighbouring village.

While the view is glorious, we occasionally need to venture. This summer I made my second visit to Sackville, New Brunswick. Home of Mount Allison University. If you were a celiac kid going off to school, this place looks pretty ideal. Tiny school. Tiny town. Only a handful of places to eat if you include the coffee shops. 

This might actually sound more like a celiac nightmare... but here one of these places is an entirely gluten-free bakery and shop called The Cackling Goose Market. 

They make the most amazing gf carrot cake. Like, so good that Bill suggested we stop again on our way home to Toronto so we could have more for breakfast. 

For dinner, you walk half a block to Joey's, an old Italian restaurant that serves up gluten-free pizza and pasta and takes your concerns pretty seriously. The owner sat us down and made sure we understood he got it, followed by the server who re-iterated that she was aware I needed safe food.

Not too many readers are going to head to Sackville specifically for this purpose, but I thought that a number of anxious parents searching the net when sending their kids off to school might be comforted knowing that there has never been a better time to be gluten free. Having done this for more than 40 years, I still cannot believe how lucky I am every time I find GOOD safe food. 

Click on Cackling Goose and Joey's for links to more info. 
I hope that this summer you had equally wonderful gluten-free surprises. 

New York, Anna & the gluten-free adventure

My cousin Anna and I have been writing to each other from distant lands for more than 20 years.  Our mothers are sisters who both left England in the 1960's and head in very different directions. Anna's mum emigrated to Australia and my mum came to Canada. Last week we met for the very first time in New York City. Within minutes of meeting our pen pal status was elevated to great friends. 

Anna was a serious trooper when it came to trekking around the city to try famed gluten-free bakeries. Being a vegetarian she was quite empathetic to how restaurants were chosen, and was open to shopping in the Chelsea Market near our guest house (where we had a kitchenette) so that we could have some fresh foods at home and to pack for days of hiking the cityscape. A new adventurous food friend - this was sheer bliss!

First stop: Tulu's Bakery. I've linked all of the names of the establishments to their websites so that you can find out what you need. 

 

Despite the late hour, Tu-lu's door was constantly swinging open with people coming in for an end of day cupcake fix. 

We met a bloke named Benny here - who referred to himself as a "Glutard", much to Anna's amusement.  When she asked if he'd been to La Risotteria he was quick to share he'd been picked up not once but twice, by girls who were looking for a gluten-free boy toy. When we left, Anna wondered aloud if this might be Benny's best selling point.  

On to the grub - I ordered the cinnamon coffee cake loaf, a brownie and a chocolate cupcake. Anna opted for a selection of mini cupcakes (image above). In an unusual state of self control we actually made it back to our hotel with our loot in tow.  That loaf was gobbled up for breakfast the next morning with tea. We conferred that Tu-lu's had been worth the trek.

Babycakes is probably the most famous of the gluten-free bakeries in NYC. The owner Erin, has been on many TV shows and has published a beautiful cookbook. On our last night we made this our pilgrimage. 

  

Yowza. I just didn't know where to start! While this bakery is known for their cupcakes - I thought I'd try a donut and a madeleine as I'd never had either before. Worth. Every. Penny. Can't believe I showed such self control.. and a part of me is relieved that this place isn't too close or I'd be needing to run more often!        

One of the best things about food - is how it bonds us. In our gleeful perusal of goodies we got to know Hanna, who sat in the window enjoying a cupcake. Hanna kindly offered up a couple of her favourite gluten-free restaurants in the city. As our NYC visit was winding down, we didn't get a chance to try them this time - but I've linked to Nizza and Fiorello so that you can check them out. 

 

We ate at La Risotteria, which is without a doubt a "must do". According to Benny - you might even get a date out of it! This was my third visit to the establishment, and I can't imagine a trip to NYC without a stop here. Even Anna commented that her risotto was the best she'd ever eaten. I normally opt for pizza, but this round had the spinach and sausage risotto. SO GOOD!

There is something incredible about arriving at a restaurant where gluten-free bread sticks are greeting you! This place only seats 20 and doesn't take reservations, so unless you are willing to hang out for a bit - I recommend you go early. A special thanks to my Auntie Thea for treating us to this special night out on the town! 

Finally, a shout out to Benny's Burritos (nope, not the same Benny)...where we had yummy Mexican food - notations on the menu clarified the gluten-free factor, and there was a huge selection. The place is packed in the evenings (a good sign) so we did lunch. Bill and I have eaten here on previous visits and I always have a hugely satisfying meal. 

Looking forward to checking out Hanna's suggestions on our next visit to NYC.... but will miss having my dear cousin, the lovely Sunshine Anna by my side. 

If you're heading to NYC anytime soon be sure to bookmark this post. If you have other great options to share - please do so in the comments or on this blog's Facebook fan page HERE. If you come from a place where gf treats are hard to find... I recommend that you bring an extra suitcase to cart home some goodies... and bring some stretchy pants for the ride home :)

 

gluten-free Copenhagen!

Copenhagen was our last stop on the month-long journey. This city had been on my personal wish list for almost 2 decades. In a past life I worked in the contract furniture industry and gained serious respect for Danish design, long before the mid-century modern furniture craze hit the masses. 

So - day one, we needed a bank machine. I don't think I ever fully got the hang of the Kroner...it was hard to wrap your mind around such large numbers and I was doing a lot of bad math in my head for a week. 

designer coffee at Bang & Jensen

 I digress. The point of the bank machine was that this was the impetus for stumbling upon Bang & Jensen - which became our "go to" place for the week. Their (badly translated) site can be found HERE.
I note the translation - because I could not believe how well everyone in this city speaks English. Not second language English either. The owner of this cafe spoke so eloquently, that Bill and I were stunned. We suddenly realized that we'd spent weeks speaking such simplified English in an attempt to be understood.

The other reason I bring up English, is that suddenly, I was not anxious about eating out anymore. I could simply have the conversation I would have in Toronto, asking questions like "is it breaded, dredged or coated in anything?" and know that I my questions were clearly comprehended.

waiting for the bus to ferry us across the river

I must apologize that there are no food photos to share here. Despite the loveliness surrounding me, I didn't take my camera out very much. Instead, I found myself soaking up the sights and just "being" in the moment (vs capturing it all for later). 

While I did not partake in any Danish sandwiches, they are worth noting. Danes eat "open" sandwiches - meaning one slice of bread on the bottom. Many could feasibly be ordered without the bread. Bill ordered a "potato" sandwich which was essentially a substantial potato salad with a thin slice of bread at the bottom of the bowl. Think smoked salmon, for example (hold the bread - and if you're inclined, cart your gf Wasa crackers :). 

One night at Bang & Jensen I asked the staff about the (not so healthy) natchos on the menu. When I showed concern about the chip ingredients - she brought me the bag. Ingredients were listed in more than a dozen languages, which was very reassuring. They were ordered again a few days later :).

Our most memorable meal in Copenhagen was a simple one. It's hard to mess up on a simple steak. We ordered steak frites and a salad at Cafe Oscar. A delightful little restaurant just down the street from the Danish Design Museum. If you are lucky enough to travel here, don't miss either spot. 

Finally - the gluten-free highlight of Copenhagen was directly across from our little apartment. Naturbageriet had fresh gluten-free goodies waiting for me in the window every morning. I apologize profusely for not photographing the rumballs, cardamon carrot cake, the date loaf or the banana muffins. They had "regular" baked goods there too (they write about this on their site - see link) but go to every effort to keep the two worlds from colliding. The people who run the place are very knowledgeable about the ingredients and were most reassuring. I ate their goodies every day, and felt healthy - and VERY happy!!

Copenhagen was everything I hoped it would be. Inspirational eye candy everywhere. Extremely walkable. Areas reminiscent of a modern-day Venice. Style, often understated, but certainly painstakingly considered. Gorgeous, present and welcoming. 

We were extremely enamored with this part of the world and will certainly be making another Scandinavian excursion. Like anything in life, the first time is learning the ropes. Our next trip I'm sure that we'll have more exciting culinary adventures. For now I'm happy to report that we ate well - and I came home feeling good and inspired to transform the experience into new creative endeavours.

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