Gluten Free Rome - Roma Senza Glutine!

I've just returned from a delightful 15 day visit with my dearest friend Alessandra in beautiful Roma. 

I have spent a great deal of time in Rome, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I've packed up and moved there for a year at a time twice in my life (so far). As a celiac, most people would not consider this the ideal environment. I'd agree that this was true 20 years ago when I spent my first year there. Back then the words celiac and gluten (even when said in Italian) only confused people. Every interaction ended in one of two ways - complete disbelief and pity, or complete disbelief and dismissal. 

When I returned 10 years later, things had already changed a great deal. As a european citizen (and at the time taxpayer) I was entitled to healthcare. As a celiac I was essentially "disabled" in a culture where everything is made with flour. This translated into a 120 euro prescription for gluten free food available in the pharmacy. I dare you to try and keep up with that quantity of cookies, gnocchi and cake. I came home a year later with an extra 15lbs around my midsection.

On this most recent visit I was in awe of the quantity of restaurants around the city that were promoting their gluten-free options. Rather than make a list of places that will constantly change (and will vary in their understanding of contamination)... I thought I'd illustrate just how common the offering has become. 

I've eaten at Il TulipanoNero, in Trastevere, where I've had many, many amazing pizzas over the years. Click on their name for a link for them goes to Trip Advisor with loads of mixed reviews. I've always come away very happy. 

They were one of the first restaurants in Rome to offer gluten free and have been endorsed by the Italian Celiac Association. You will sometimes see this sign posted to indicate that the association has trained the restaurant and approves of their processes. This approval is renewed every year.  


As with anywhere, I don't strictly rely on places that promote their gluten-free status. I ate at Luca's in the neighbourhood of San Giovanni. Luca, the chef made special versions of dishes that were served to others where possible. He came out to explain which desserts were safe (I was too full - but he insisted I have a little plate of the filling he used in one of the pastries). 

Italians are passionate about food, and in my experience, are very accommodating. I also dined at il desiderio preso per la coda, near Piazza Navona, where the server was very attentive and had risotto made for me that did not use the pasta water (common practice) or include "dado" (their word for commercial broth). As a rule, I prefer to eat where the Romans eat and avoid places full of other tourists. Italians eat LATE, so an empty restaurant at 8pm is not an indication of popularity.

Valentino does not have a sign - the exterior remains from its heritage as an osteria or Italian pub

At Valentino, in the Monti neighbourhood I ate like a queen - they make meat, cheese and vegetable dishes (no pizza, pasta on the dinner menu). The owner was very clear on which dishes included pane gratata (bread crumbs - also commonly added to vegetable dishes here). I've eaten at Valentino three times, the food and authentic Italian atmosphere - makes it my favourite Italian restaurant. If you click on any of the names of these places, I've linked to their websites.

Fellow blogger, Erin at glutenfreeglobetrotter recommends La Soffitta Ristorante Renovatio, near the Vatican.

 

Another reader and blogger named Anna from gluten free jet setter commented that Taverna Barberini made her gluten-free pasta that she still dreams about. I noted on their site that they also hold gluten-free events there. 

Voglia di Pizza has also gotten some online attention and cross promotes with a hotel that promises a good gluten free experience.

Mama! Eat - is located in Trastevere and also has two locations in Napoli. Check out their menu online. I'll try them next time as they are around the corner from my favourite Piazza - Santa Maria in Trastevere.


I typically stay with Alessandra when I'm in the city - so don't eat every meal out. We shop and eat most meals at home. EVERY grocery store I've been in has at least some gluten-free pasta, cookies and or crackers.You will not starve in Roma. 


The gluten-free goodness is never ending. How about the classic Tiramisu - made gluten-free at Pompi. They have several locations around central Rome. Mamma mia - if only Alessandra hadn't been lactose intolerant... I ate a portion that was more than enough for two - all by myself in less than 5 minutes. 



Gelato - for the most part safe in and of itself, but like any ice-cream place, one must be careful of contamination. Scoops that go in a cookie/biscotti flavour get used with all of the flavours. Use your best judgement, and always share that you are gluten-free. This is a language that is well understood now - especially in Italian. Do everyone a favour and be clear to avoid unnecessary intake. 




At Fatamorgana Gelato, one needs not worry at all. When I asked to see the gluten-free cones they promoted, the server looked at me quizzically. They are all gluten-free, he said, and proceeded to show me the recipe for the most amazing thin crispy cone I've ever had. They have 6 locations in the centre of Rome. Everything is gluten free. Almond cardamon, chocolate orange, and lactose free flavours like pineapple ginger... sigh. 

My celiac childhood has left me with a considerable weakness for cookies. There is an incredible selection within the grocery stores, and many larger grocery chains even carry their own line of gluten-free goods. You will never be bored. I often trekked around the city with little bags of almonds, individually wrapped packages of cookies (to have with my cappuccino), or crackers and wrapped cheeses on days when I wandered alone and just needed something to hold me over. Unlike my travels in northern Europe, I rarely needed these little emergency rations. 

I've lived with celiac disease for a very long time, and have only ever approached food through a lens of caution. I will admit that my Italian, while not perfect, is pretty functional, and this helps a lot - but is not necessary to get a safe meal that will I suspect will greatly exceed your expectations. 

A couple of key words to know:

Gluten Free: 
Senza glutine (pronounced sen-zah gloo - tee - nay).

I am/have celiac disease: 
Sono celiaca (pronounced so-no chee - lee - ah - kah )

Check out this useful travel site HERE to download cards in every language that you can carry with you. 

Visit the Italian Celiac Association site HERE. At the time I'm posting their regionalized restaurant list was under construction.

Mangiare Senza Glutine is an Italian language site, but includes an APP you can download to search wherever you are in Italy for gluten free anything. It was recommended to me by another Roman friend Priscilla, who works as a tour guide. 

If you are not into eating out for every meal (like me), an ideal arrangement is to rent a small studio apartment with a kitchen. Everything tastes better here - even when you make it yourself. So many products like sauces, pesto - even chocolate are marked as gluten-free... so it's not difficult to keep yourself satiated here. Keep the food simple, avoid highly processed items with long ingredient lists - and ask for help. The various names for gluten on the restaurant cards will be helpful when shopping too, as you can use them to ask others to validate ingredients if you need to. 

All I've covered here is food... which is divine, but only a part of the experience, and by no means comprehensive. What I wanted to provide here was a sense of the possibilities. My hope is to calm any anxieties about travel to a country known for its gluten. Even without the fine fare... Rome is non-stop eye candy. 

Remember to click on the many links I've shared for more information on the places I came across ... and then pack your camera, sunglasses and most comfortable shoes. You'll certainly find your own special gluten free finds when you get there. 

Buon Viaggio!!

Eataly carries three stories full of the most beautiful Italian food products. At Piramide station on the metro. 

ps: for more on travel - check out the links on the right side of this blog... and don't forget to check the amazing sites of the gf travel bloggers I've linked to above!

All Roads Lead to gluten-free Rome!

Well, my roads all certainly seem to... I've moved there twice! Anyone who knows me has undoubtedly heard me speak way too much about my love of all things Italian.... you'd think I'd have written about gluten-free Roma by now. I'm happy to share that I'm heading back for a couple of weeks with little on the agenda except for wandering. 

Nowadays it makes sense to spend some time on the internet learning from those who've travelled before you. I'm building up a list of places to watch out for - and hope that I'll discover a whole bunch more on my adventures as I wind through the cobblestone streets of my favourite city. 

Ci vediamo qui tra un po con i posti e il cibo migliore... e senza glutine!!

Gluten-free Crepes - Facile & Delicieux!!

no food styling here - last minute pic with my phone before I gobbled them down! 

My dear friend Danielle sent me this super fancy crepe pan over the holidays. I emailed her as soon as I cracked open the parcel, and told her that the gift made me feel French just owning it!

This is a very special pan made by De Buyer . It took me weeks to finally get up the nerve to "season" it as it is cast iron with some interesting beeswax coating. When I finally got around to the task, it was ridiculously easy... and the pan truly IS non-stick! We are trying to move away from teflon in our house. I'm now seeing it's not going to be that difficult to let go of after all.

Most gluten-filled goods with egg at the core, are typically easier to replicate. I snooped around the net for about 2 minutes and determined that we were looking at flour, egg, milk, salt and a little butter. You can multiply the ratios to meet the quantity you want to make. The quantities below made 7 crepes around 9" in diameter (ok, almost 8 - the first little tester out of the pan doesn't count!). It was just enough for two (enough, meaning a healthy quantity - we could have easily eaten twice as many). If you're hungry, consider this quantity below per person: 

Mix in a bowl: 
1/2 cup brown rice flour
1/4 cup chick pea flour
pinch salt

Separately mix:
3/4 cup milk
1 egg
1 tbsp melted butter 
(warm butter is fine - but not hot, or it will cook the egg!)

Whisk the wet together, then form a well in the dry ingredients and pour the egg mixture into the center "well" whisking away to remove any lumps. I sprinkled in a little garam masala (I can't help myself - I put it in everything - but not necessary). Many recipes suggest that you make the batter ahead and let it sit. I didn't bother this round. I also like a recipe that isn't too precise - if you want to make slightly thinner or thicker batter, you'll simply get thinner or thicker crepes. 

Using the 1/4 cup measuring cup I had just used to measure the flour, I ladled the batter onto my new crepe pan (which was med/hot). Obviously a ladle would work equally well. 

Quickly swirl the batter around the pan to make an even crepe. You'll see the batter fill with tiny bubbles and the sides start to brown ever so slightly. Flip and cook the other side for about 30 seconds or less. Pile them up on a plate. I rolled ours and poured maple syrup on them - as these were really just "tester" crepes to try out the pan. Next time I'd  add berries, sliced banana... the options are endless, and when it comes to gluten-free breakfast... we are always in need of more options. 

For more gluten-free breakfast ideas - check out a related post HERE. 

Of course, crepes are not just for breakfast. My mom used to make gf crepes and use them to make gluten-free cannelloni when I was a kid. Next time I'm thinking I'll add a pinch of nutmeg instead of the garam masala and rolling them up filled with finely chopped spinach and fresh ricotta cheese. I'll try to take some better photos to share on the next round. Bon appetite!

Gluten-Free Joke

It's official - you can't go anywhere now without someone making fun of gluten-free mania. I've commented before that  "marketing" gluten-free label on products that would never even be suspect (jam, for example)...makes me crazy. 

Today you'll even see "gluten-free" marked on a bag of almonds. Ingredients: Almonds. On the same bag: Does Not Contain Gluten. In this case, I'd guess that the distributor is tired of fielding calls on their customer service line. 

Don't get me wrong - I'm DELIGHTED to see packaging with clear "Gluten-Free" labelling - but c'mon. When things that would never be suspect are touting this status as a selling feature - it's no wonder the gluten-free scene is taking a lot of knocks right now. I just saw a print done by a local artist titled "GLUTEN FREE POETRY". 

Celiacs - get ready... I feel the winds are changing once again. Your fashionable diet is, well, becoming more fun to mock than to follow. Perhaps I'll feel like a dinosaur in a few years when I order out at a restaurant and ask whether a dish can be served up "gluten-free". We'll find all of those gf cookbooks stacked up alongside Mr. Atkins in the used book stores. Of course... I could be wrong. In which case, good thing there is gluten-free coffee (and more importantly, cookies) available down the street!

Growing up Celiac - and the Sibling Experience

My little brother Paul was 2 when I was diagnosed with celiac disease. It only occurred to me much later in life that growing up gluten-free had an effect on his life too. My mom wasn't one to have much in way of processed foods in the house, but let's just say he probably saw considerably less Oreos and baked goods in general than the average kid of his day, because his big sister was a "celiac". 

I'm sure that my "special" diet, and the fact that it often required additional attention meant that Paul (and my parents, of course) got to eat what I was having, in a time when substitutes for flour-filled goodies just didn't exist. 

Today is Paul's 44th birthday, and I'd like to give a shout out to a kid who never complained (to me anyway!) that we didn't order in pizza or eat McDonalds or Duncan Hines cakes at our house, in part - because I couldn't eat them. 

I think it's important to acknowledge that often, the entire family makes sacrifices when one family member needs to alter their food. The person with the "needs" often overshadows the ones without. Sending out vibes of gratitude today - and extra special thanks to that cute little kid who never made me feel bad or ate things I wish I could indulge in (in front of me). Love you Paul!

25,000 + Visitors :) Grazie! Merci! Gracias! Danke!….

I was pretty excited to see the speedometer roll over on this blog as the new year unfurled. There are days when you post and wonder if anyone is actually getting anything from your efforts. 

For those who are regular visitors, you've probably noticed that posts have been pretty sparse over the last 6 months. I've been knee deep in a special project that is finally wrapping up after more than 8 years of incubation. I look forward to sharing more about it here sooooon!!!

For now, I hope you'll poke around the blog and check out some older posts through the tags on the bottom right side, or by hitting the banner to get the last 12 posts. I'll be back again on a regular basis in February to continue the adventure with you :)

Thanks so much for keeping me company here!!

taking a gluten-free specialty product break

The world looks very different today for a gluten-intolerant person than it did in 1972. I have watched the food options soar in the last 10 years to a point where I barely notice that I have a "special" diet anymore. I kept thinking that this fad was going to pass the way of the Atkins diet… but it seems that my people are everywhere now - and so is our food.

I am grateful, but I also think that there is a bit of a downside for an old-school celiac like me. Access to goodies at every turn and gf products that mimic foods I'd never even missed have entered my diet. Many are delicious. Many are also superfluous. I don't need a cinnamon bun. 

I've just realized that I  probably eat at least one "special gluten-free" cracker, bread, pasta or cookie every day. Not a big deal for some… but I used to live very well without these items.

I've been battling some health issues of late - as I get older I'm adding more autoimmune conditions to my list (I'm now at 4). Genetics and environment are key factors in autoimmune disease. I can't control the former - but I think it's time to put some controls on the latter. 

As part of my self care protocol, I've decided not to do anything rash like a cleanse… but I am going to take a break from all foods "produced" as gluten free. I'm going to lay off the specialty gluten-free bread, crackers, cookies, snacks… and try to go back to the diet I thrived on 10 years ago. 

Back to simple grains (millet, quinoa, brown rice, buckwheat), organic protein, and tons of veggies… I won't be a saint - just the simple omission of packaged goods. Back to basics for awhile to see how the deletion of excess starches, xanthum and guar gums, etc., etc., has me feeling. (I already know the answer). If you are wondering what I'm talking about - take a look at a past post HERE. 

We buy very little in way of processed products at home - but somehow the gluten-free goodies have crept into the house as I've had a little entitlement to get over after years of having gone without. It might be easier to go without now, knowing that products will be on the shelf to enjoy in moderation when I'm feeling better. 


With the arrival of a new year, I figure the rest of the planet will be on a diet of sorts too. Whatever you're eating - may the new year bring you good health!

gluten-free dining out and holiday socials

Tis the season to be eating out more frequently - holidays mean gatherings of groups from the office, associations, teams… it's a time when larger groups book dinner out in restaurants you've never eaten at before. 

Today with so much hoopla about gluten-free… there are options. What frightens me, is that in many cases the establishment hasn't actually learned what gluten-free really means. Serving rice pasta that's cooked in the same pasta water as the wheat pasta (beware!), risotto made with the same pasta water (yes, this is common practise!), or fries cooked in the same oil as the battered onion rings, samosas etc. is par for the course. That's just for starters. There's the soy sauce in the marinade or the dressing, the bouillon used in the soup or sauce…. Those of us who live on a strict gluten-free diet know. Those serving a population that they believe to be following the latest trend - typically, do not. 

Don't get me wrong - I'm delighted that gluten-free living is being embraced and is helping more than just those with celiac disease. I'm very happy to live in a society that is starting to take healthcare to the level of diet before chronic illness requires stronger remedies. I love my gluten-free diet. It's just that today, I'm less trusting of the cavalier use of the term gluten free. I feel the need to throw around "celiac" in a restaurant while looking the server in the eye that pleas for them to take me seriously.  

A couple of weeks ago I ate in a restaurant for the first time and asked if the burger was gluten-free. The waiter responded by saying that it was provided I didn't have the bun. When I asked about fries, he said that they were made in the same oil as other gluten items. I immediately felt safer about the burger I'd just ordered (with a side salad). 

This weekend we were out in another new establishment which largely served pizza and pasta. They had risotto, so I asked about how it was made. The girl looked confused when I asked about the pasta water. When she came back she told me not to order it - not because of the water, but because even the kitchen didn't know what was in the bouillon. In the end I ordered the chicken - it was the only option on the menu. When in doubt, opt for simple (grilled or broiled, no sauce and clarify that something isn't dredged in flour first when it comes to meat and fish). Scare them with the thought that you might be ill right in the restaurant if you must :)

In the next two weeks I have at least 3 events that I can think of where I'll be dining with a large group in a restaurant I've never eaten at before. I will be perusing the menu on-line in advance and making a call before going to save getting lost in the shuffle of a big group. No one wants to get sick over the holidays… and this is one time of year where you're bound to find yourself outside of your comfort zone. I've written more extensively on holiday socializing HERE. 

Wishing you a safe and Happy Holidays!!

Virtuous Gluten-Free Ginger Cardamon Pear Cake

Pears mark the very end of in season fresh fruit here in Canada. I couldn't resist buying a whole basket even if I was the only one home to eat them. William was away on a road trip and I wanted to have lots of simple meal options on hand. Naturally, I figured it was a great time to bake.

Baking a cake can be a very dangerous act. Especially if you are home alone with a whole cake afterwards. For this reason, and because I knew I'd want the "cake" to supplement light meals, I opted to more of a "loaf". By that I mean there was almost no processed sugar in it at all. It does have loads of fruit (sugar) and crystallized ginger (sugar) that make it plenty sweet - but not quite dessert.

1/4 cup oil
1/4-1/3 cup brown sugar
3 organic eggs
1 ripe banana
1 cup chick pea flour
1/2 cup brown rice flour
1tsp gf baking powder
1/8 tsp salt
1tbsp garam masala
1-1/2 tsp cardamon 
5 firm pears - diced
1/2 cup walnut pieces
1/4 cup finely chopped organic crystallized ginger

This is pretty darned healthy - so great for breakfast on the run, or warmed up with a cup of tea. Chick pea flour is high in protein and fibre. Fruit is also high fibre and integrating any fruit typically means a moister outcome without having to use much oil (not that I'm into low fat in any way - if it's good fat!). 

I'm pretty lazy when it comes to baking. I'm sure it would be lighter and possibly even rise higher if I mixed this in another way - but I'm happy with my lazy food processor, um, "process". 

Pulse the ingredients in a food processor in the order presented using the paddle attachment (not the blade). Oil sugar and eggs first until well combined. Whip in the banana and you'll have a paste. Now measure in the dry, pushing sides down with a spatula as necessary between pulses. Pears, ginger and walnuts go in last so they don't get pulverized into the batter. Pour into a non-stick or greased angel food or bundt pan. Bake for one hour in a 350 degree oven. 

If you eat a quarter of the cake in the first day by yourself, you can easily justify that you just ate a pear, some chickpeas and rice, an egg, walnuts and ginger with a trace of sugar sprinkled on top. I mean seriously - your practically a saint. 

I made this "cake" two weeks in a row as it was so easy and yummy. I preferred the first version when the pears were less ripe. Apples would work perfectly in this recipe - in which case I'd add raisins and or dates too. The point for me was to make it chock full of nutritious ingredients so that it could cover a meal here and there.  

This is very similar to the carrot ginger cake that I've posted about in the past. You can find that sweeter and slightly less virtuous recipe for that cake HERE.